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This was our third and final voyage with Saltimbanque. This trip marks the end of 16,5 years of minimalist adventures from Guyana (4° North) to the High Coast of Sweden (63° North), from St. Petersburg (30° East) to the Virgin Islands (64° West). This is the last chapter of the story of our return from Norway via the Viking Route, but also the conclusion of a significant tome of our lives…
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1825 miles sailed during this voyage
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Summary of the 3rd voyage
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We have been sailing in spring and summer at latitudes around 60° north for years, and we are used to sometimes windy and often grey skies, but generally quite pleasant. When we left Oslo on May 12th, 2024, under bright sunshine and 25°C on the thermometer - the same conditions as when we departed for the Baltic in May 2018 – the conditions seemed normal for the season. This pleasant weather followed us along the Norwegian coast. Of course, we had to avoid a few small gales, and a large stationary low trapped us in the Shetland for 12 days, but we had anticipated possible long periods of strong winds when planning our route. The rain that eventually set in was not really a surprise either; after all, we had already experienced summers in Bergen, and with good raingear, it wasn’t so bad…
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What we expected … (southern Norway, May 14th)
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… and the truth ! (Scottish Highlands, 18th June)
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But we were not prepared for that weather forecast on this first morning in Lerwick (Shetland): 6°C in the morning, 9°C at the warmest in the afternoon, in the air as in the water. These are not at all comfortable conditions on Saltimbanque, without real heating and without any thermal insulation. While managing the cold is possible with various wool and down layers, the humidity level in the boat quickly becomes a big problem. Besides the condensation on the uninsulated aluminium hull, the size of the boat also plays a role as we have nowhere to dry our dripping raincoats except in the middle of the cabin. These conditions lasted until Ireland, and we lived for about a month with 10 to 15 degrees inside and 98 to 100% humidity. Manageable for once, but we wouldn’t want to live more permanently in these conditions.
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Beyond the sheer lack of comfort onboard, these windy and wet conditions proved trying when sailing. Strong wind is always stressful and tiring, but it becomes quickly exhausting with 5 degrees and a driving rain. Our shifts were reduced to 2 hours, spending as much of them inside as possible, and even relatively short crossings depleted our energy reserves for several days. On the flipside: we anticipated a lot of beating against the prevailing winds, but we ended up on a direct course most of the time! We sailed close to the wind on the starboard tack, as the north easterlies which pushed us along Norway veered to the West through North just when we reached Scotland… Perfect!
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A typical scene: sheltered in the harbour, the small heater is blowing all it can, while oilies are dripping everywhere…
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Finally we caught up with the high pressure! (Isles of Glenan, 29th July)
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The weather finally improved in Southern Ireland, and the last weeks in Cornwall and Brittany were the nicest. Maybe we enjoyed this part of the summer even more than other sailors who didn’t come from the North…
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Scotland is definitely a cold, windy and wet country, much more than our Southern Norwegian backyard, and uncomfortable conditions made for a less pleasant experience than anticipated. We are looking forward to being back there with a bigger, heated and insulated boat – and hope that we will then be able to enjoy the stunning landscapes with greater freedom!
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Sailing along the rugged coastlines of Norway, Shetland and Scotland, we expected to be able to (or even have to) drop the anchor often. But this has not always been possible…
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Along the Norwegian West coast, mountains are high and by symmetry fjords are deep… without a windlass, we limited ourselves to grounds shallower than 10m, and we often took advantage of the small wooden quays conveniently installed everywhere and close to more difficult anchorages. .
In the Shetland, the only time we could have tried was the first night, but wind gusts were running over the water in the two bays we approached, and we ended up running back to the safety of Lerwick harbour.
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Pilapollen, our only anchorage in Western Norway
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Strong Scottish moorings are appreciated in the gusts blowing down the mountains
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In Scotland, we were deterred from trying by strong and shifty winds. It’s not easy to find a good anchorage: good holding ground for our flat anchor, but also easy to get out of with a weak engine. Luckily Scotland is well equipped with easy-to-pick mooring buoys, installed in numerous bays and regularly checked and maintained. During the first night in Loch Torridon, the bay which was supposed to be sheltered turned into a surfing spot – big waves created by catabatic winds over 35kts. This experience didn’t encourage us to drop the anchor outside of the (very) rare perfect conditions.
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In the Irish sea, the straight coastline and strong currents make it impossible to anchor.
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In Cornwall and Ireland however, we stayed always on the anchor or on a mooring. Our last day in the Glenan was simply magical, floating over clear blue water in front of the white sand beach of Guiriden, then watching the sun set by Cigogne fort.
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Magical anchorage at Guiriden in the Glenan islands
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All in all, we have been missing the quiet wild anchorages we had dreamed of. On that point again, we hope that our future boat equipped with a windlass, a better anchor and a powerful engine will allow us to anchor in more difficult conditions. One more expectation for our next trip ;o)
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So, did we enjoy that trip actually??
Absolutely! Sailing in these demanding waters brought us through a series of stunning landscapes and opened wonderful views and experiences.
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Walking on Sotra, watching over the skjærgård towards Bergen
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After the first miles in the Norwegian skjærgård (well-known but always consistently beautiful), we reached the fjords carved in the first high mountain ranges. Sailing between Stord and Sotra, between Austevoll and the Folgefonna remains a magical memory, as we were getting closer to dear old Bergen. Even known landscapes can be stunningly beautiful! And it was a dream-come-true, little Saltimbanque moored in the middle of Bergen’s old harbour by Bryggen… Bliss!
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Northern Scotland looks a lot like Norway. Which, of course, we like! As we sail towards the South, the coastline becomes flatter and the shores more populated. In contrast with Scandinavia, contacts with the local population is easier, people are chattier and mostly nice and eager to help. One gets to talk and learn about cultural specificities, … like the importance of peat and whisky! We knew nothing before, and now we have a better understanding of the whole way of life revolving around that industry.
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Plockton, the picture-perfect village in the Highlands
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Heavy historical burden, still palpable in the streets of Belfast
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After the beautiful lochs, hills and islands of Scotland, we have been underwhelmed by the Irish eastern coastline. Flat, sandy, with strong currents and few naturals harbours, it doesn’t match the postcard view of a traditional pub nestled in a rocky cove. Maybe these are to be found on the West coast only. Yet we enjoyed a few visits, and walking through Belfast remains the most poignant experience of our trip.
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Once we reached the isles of Scilly, and then Brittany, we were back home. The excitement of discovery slowly yielded to the bittersweet nostalgia of the miles sailed and gone. We did enjoy these few weeks too however, catching up on the sunny summer and warm temperatures, and feeling on “holidays” in these known waters. Leisurely sailing to beautiful places that we greet like old friends.
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This is holidays at last, under the sun in Camaret!
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Looking back over the whole trip, the highlight for us remains our stay in the Shetland. Strange enough, because we could not sail much there, and stayed stuck for 12 long and frustrating days in the harbour. We discovered the islands by bus. But being stuck forced us to take the time and visit the fascinating prehistorical sites and remote creeks and cliffs. Seeing again and again the same places, we soaked up every detail of them instead of scratching the surface only. We took up some habits, walking through the familiar streets and making this quaint welcoming place our own. We didn’t expect to see such a rich wildlife here, nor to meet so many sailors… offshore birds of all kinds feel at home here!
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Sumburgh, at the southern tip of Shetland : a lighthouse, many fulmars and a scary tidal roost…
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Unst, at the very North : puffins and gannets and stunning views …
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Travelling by boat one appreciates better the gradual evolution of the landscapes, but also of the cultures. During the whole trip we sailed between the Viking, Celtic and English civilisations, witnessing how they sometimes mixed and often fought each other throughout the centuries… From the fiercely Viking Shetland to the proudly Celtic Brittany, through an Ireland torn apart, we followed the story of the conquests past. Civilisations rose and fell, ebbing and flowing over the territories, leaving behind stories and ruins of all shapes and forms. Religions replace one another, so do political systems. Some deeply rooted traditions remain: free access through fields and paths is a constitutional right in Vikings countries, while English properties are neatly fenced and with manicured gardens :o)
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The purpose of this trip was to sail Saltimbanque back to Brittany, back to where our story with him began. It was also the opportunity of a last adventure together.
For the first time, we already have another boat in mind. Throughout the trip, we contrast and compare: comfort and ease to anchor in difficult conditions of course, as mentioned above. But we shouldn’t dismiss Saltimbanque too quickly!
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Sailing in windy conditions on high seas proved once again what a wonderful and seaworthy this little Brise de Mer 28 is. During the crossing of the North Sea, with 25 kts abeam, it was the crew who was tired. Saltimbanque, firmly steered by the faithful Bob, was happily riding the high waves and flying at record speeds. No wave was too high, no wind gust too strong: Saltimbanque didn’t loose control once… incredible boat…
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Saltimbanque sous 3 ris et un peu de génois en Mer du Nord
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Only a small and cute Saltimbanque would find a space in Gairloch !
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Being small and easy to manoeuvre is a plus when you want to moor to a rock or snuggle into the last available spot in a crowded harbour (like in Tobermory). We have been often grateful for the pocket size and ability to turn around on the spot and find shelter where bigger boats couldn’t go… not to mention the smaller mooring fees!
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But most of all, after 16 years and 25000 miles together we know each other perfectly and sail in perfect harmony. There is no hesitation in the manoeuvres, no surprise in the rocking movements of the boat. We feel every tension, every vibration in our bodies, we hear Saltimbanque’s softest whispers, when he asks for more or less sail, when he warns about some piece of equipment being worn out, or simply when he is happy. We do our best to keep him happy… and we haven’t had one serious technical issue in 10 years.
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4b from abeam, bright sunshine, we are the happiest trio in the world !
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After this last long trip, we have never been closer. Sometimes we wonder… why are we changing boats then? Good that these months were so cold and wet, otherwise we would have seriously doubted our choices!
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A last family picture before we each go on to new horizons
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So, there it is, we have to say goodbye to Saltimbanque. Or rather, to the Brise de Mer 28, number 11 in the series, as we know call it after taking out all our equipment and memories. The transition is very fast: less than 3 weeks after landing in Belon, the boat is sold.
Dear Saltimbanque: before meeting him we were wannabee sailors with our heads full of dreams. With him, we became true offshore sailors, we became he ones who sail always further, further than the others on a smaller boat – the ones who proved that you can succeed without a big budget or high tech equipment – the ones who earned the respect from fellow sailors. We became who we are, Saltimbanques offshore. Leaving this boat, we are leaving a part of our identity behind. We used to belong to the club “less than 30 years on less than 30 feet”. It is time to grow up and embrace our new status, as the “more than 40 years on -just a little – under 40 feet”.
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Safe travels to Saltimbanque, who is already sailing to his 5th Atlantic crossing… thank you for all the adventures!
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Saltimbanque will be back in the trade winds before us…
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We are back to our Norwegian home, but only temporarily. For many years since coming back from the Atlantic, we have been dreaming of leaving again, of casting off “for real” this time. This dream is becoming a reality. In 20 years of professional life, we have understood one thing: either one has time but no money, or one has money but no time, but never both together! It is time to decide… we have made an excel spreadsheet to model future cashflow, capital and interests on one side, expenses and inflation on the other. If we run out of money, we can always find a way to top up. Not possible in the column “time”. Call it the engineer version of a midlife crisis… When we hear from a couple of friends whose sailing career is cut short by health issues, we realize that the time has come!
Here comes the end of this first time of our life: the tome where we built successful careers, balancing our office and offshore identities, in the heart of our Nordic paradise.
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We are holding on to our dear kayaks as long as possible this autumn…
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Only a few details to fix: sell our house, sell almost everything we own (the car, the skis, even our beloved kayaks…), then put the rest in boxes (a few clothes, some cooking pots and essential books), and finally leave our companies (after ensuring a good handover to our successors and colleagues).
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But come January, we should be able to dedicate all our time to our new boat and prepare our next trip. The boat has been waiting for us for a year on the dry, and is starting to feel restless! We are also looking forward to spending more time together. We know that we will need several months to learn and control these 10 tons over 40 feet, learn and maintain all its systems… it will also take several months before it trusts us and lets us sail beyond the horizon. We have to discover each our limits and build up as much experience as possible in as varied conditions as possible.
For the first season, the season of discovery, we will sail back to Northern Europe. It is a good territory for a shake-down trip, where we can break everything that needs breaking and repair easily. Norway, here we come again, together with UtPåTur – our new floating home!
To be continued … :o)
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«Ut på tur, aldri sur !»
This Norwegian expression losely translates into « out hiking, never sulking »
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